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When Elwood Curtis, a Black boy growing up in 1960s Tallahassee, is unfairly sentenced to a juvenile reformatory called the Nickel Academy, he finds himself trapped in a grotesque chamber of horrors. Elwood’s only salvation is his friendship with fellow “delinquent” Turner, which deepens despite Turner’s conviction that Elwood is hopelessly naive, that the world is crooked, and that the only way to survive is to scheme and avoid trouble.

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Former police officer Cassie Dewell is trying to start over with her own private investigation firm. Guilty about not seeing her son and exhausted by the nights on stakeout, Cassie is nonetheless managing…until an old friend calls in a favor: She wants Cassie to help exonerate a man accused of assaulting a young girl from an influential family. Against her own better judgment, Cassie agrees. But out in the Big Sky Country of Montana, twisted family loyalty runs as deep as the ties to the land, and there’s always something more to the story. 

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The Inn at Gloucester stands alone on the rocky shoreline. Its seclusion suits former Boston police detective Bill Robinson, novice owner and innkeeper. As long as the dozen residents pay their rent, Robinson doesn’t ask any questions. Neither does Sheriff Clayton Spears, who lives on the second floor. Then Mitchell Cline arrives, with a deadly new way of doing business. His crew of local killers break laws, deal drugs, and bring violence to the doors of the Inn. 

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When she stumbles across the ad, she’s looking for something else completely.  But it seems like too good an opportunity to miss – a live-in nannying post, with a staggeringly generous salary. And when Rowan Caine arrives at Heatherbrae House, she is smitten – by the luxurious “smart” home fitted out with all modern conveniences, by the beautiful Scottish Highlands, and by this picture-perfect family. What she doesn’t know is that she’s stepping into a nightmare – one that will end with a child dead and herself in prison awaiting trial for murder.

For years, rumors of the “Marsh Girl” have haunted Barkley Cove, a quiet town on the North Carolina coast. So in late 1969, when handsome Chase Andrews is found dead, the locals immediately suspect Kya Clark, the so-called Marsh Girl. But Kya is not what they say. Sensitive and intelligent, she has survived for years alone in the marsh that she calls home, finding friends in the gulls and lessons in the sand.

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Abbott government can’t be serious about encouraging women in the workforce

The tyranny of the white picket fence: Abbott government can’t be serious about encouraging women in the workforce

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This was published 7 years ago

It was a mistake to think Tony Abbott and his ministers were serious about child care, writes Anne Summers.

By Anne Summers

June 12, 2015 — 5.32pm

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Prime Minister Tony Abbott and his cabinet colleagues have talked so much about wanting to encourage women, especially mothers, to increase their workforce participation that I’d started to believe they were serious.

I was ready to concede that after decades of espousing the John Howard “white picket fence” ideal of family – you know, the one where the happy wife is a full-time domestic goddess ministering to the every need of her perfect (and good job-holding) husband and her brood of adorable kids – the Liberal Party had undergone a fundamental change in ideology.

Illustration: Simon Bosch

I’d forced myself to overcome my innate scepticism that this ideology was so deeply entrenched on the conservative side of politics that the rhetoric of Abbott and his ministers was simply not credible.

Instead, I took Abbott and Joe Hockey and Scott Morrison at their word.

They had been convinced, they told us, that childcare was the key to enabling mothers to go back to work. It was way more important a factor than the government’s proposed income-replacement Paid Parent Leave (PPL) scheme. The Productivity Commission had said so, virtually every commentator had said so and women themselves – the ultimate judges, one would have thought – had said loud and clear that years of affordable childcare availability was more decisive than six months of PPL in determining their workforce participation.

The government seemed to be on track to deliver the kind of sound policy that women had been yearning for: policy that would enable them to have kids, spend some time bonding with their babies after birth while retaining that vital attachment to the workforce and then having childcare options that were realistically framed and priced to enable them to stay in employment, develop their skills, build up savings in superannuation and become equal members of a society that prizes economic activity as a measure of social worth.

Then we were shown the policy.

Whatever trust we had been willing to invest in the government was instantly blown out of the water when the minister, Scott Morrison, announced that women could only have the childcare if they gave up significant family benefit payments.

To be precise, the $3.5 billion so-called Jobs for Families childcare package, which on the face of it seemed a rational policy that dealt realistically with many of the shortfalls of the current system, had to “be funded by the savings measures for Family Tax Benefits announced in last year’s Budget”.

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These savings measures have been calculated by the Parliamentary Budget Office to be worth $9.4 billion over the next four years.

While women were still digesting this breathtakingly brazen Abbott government version of three card monte – you give us $9.4 billion and we’ll give you $3.5 billion in return – the government chucked in a wild card that has left us reeling.

Instead of the “fair dinkum” income-replacement PPL which had been Abbott’s signature policy – testament to his credentials as a born-again supporter of working women – the government now announced a crackdown on double dipping, “rorting” mums.

It turned out that thousands of new mothers, among them Mrs Frydenberg (wife of the federal assistant treasurer) and Mrs Cormann (wife of the federal finance minister), were now fraudsters, according to the federal government, for having accessed the government’s own PPL as well as whatever scheme their employer provided. For doing precisely what the government scheme, introduced in 2011, intended.

With just two policy announcements, the Abbott government has triple somersaulted back from supposedly encouraging Aussie mums to stay in the workforce to treating them as ingrates and pariahs for having the temerity to want to walk through that white picket fence.

Turns out my scepticism was justified.

Just think about it.

Is there any other area of policy where beneficiaries are required to fund their programs by giving up a current entitlement?

Was Defence told it could only have its spanking new two Canberra Class amphibious assault ships, costing $3 billion, if they gave up two of the 12 submarines that will cost the budget $36 billion? I don’t think so.

If the government truly believed that childcare was essential to women’s workforce participation it would fund the new program from consolidated revenue, which in turn would benefit from the economic activity generated by women’s participation. Clearly the government does not believe in childcare.

Nor does it believe that PPL is integral to keeping women attached to employment. In fact, it is now clear that Abbott’s three versions of PPL are all sleight-of-hand tricks.

He has given us “over my dead body” (2003), “fair dinkum” (2010) and, now in 2015, “double dipping”. Each of these, when you really look at them, denies employed mothers a realistic paid leave option and therefore a key workplace entitlement.

Abbott gave us “over my dead body” in 2003 when Sex Discrimination Commissioner Pru Goward sought to have the Howard cabinet legislate for PPL. Seven years later he bypassed his party room and shadow cabinet and announced a full income-replacement 26 weeks PPL policy that would include women earning up to $150,000, and which was so stunningly extravagant it had no hope of ever being enacted. Now “double dipping” seeks to strip thousands of mothers of both cash and extra weeks of employer paid leave they had been entitled to expect would supplement the government’s scheme.

Rather than compensate for the loss of “fair dinkum” by extending the existing government 18-week PPL and including superannuation, Abbott is pulling up stumps, leaving employed mums-to-be in limbo.

The new family tax benefits regime is due to come into effect on July 1 but has Buckley’s chance of passing the Senate so there goes the childcare package.

So with no new childcare policy and a joke of a PPL scheme, where are working women left?

Back behind that white picket fence?

Anne Summers is editor and publisher of Anne Summers Reports

Twitter: @SummersAnne

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Fencing for Outdoor Play Areas

A few friends of mine with young children called me in to help them transform their backyard into a preschool play area. Specifically, I had to put in a new fence because the short chain link that was on location was regularly being climbed by the kids, and was leading to scrapes and falls. Being in a neighborhood that was a little rough around the edges, they wanted the new fence to provide a measure of security as well.

On top of that, they wanted the fence to look as good as the rest of their property, since an attractive and well-designed space is typically better for business. Taking all their needs into consideration, I could tell that I was looking for a fence for an outdoor play area that would be reasonably high, solid or with smooth, unclimbable pickets, and one that would stay looking clean and professional for years. Achieving the best possible combination of safety, security, and style would be the guiding light for my project.

First Requirement for a Fence for an Outdoor Play Area: Safety

 Kids are incredibly inquisitive beings, testing out everything they can reach, and playing with everything they can touch. With this in mind, there are a few major requirements for fences that are going to contain children:

• A Kid-Friendly Surface: To make the fence safe, I was mindful to choose a surface as free as possible from jagged edges and abrasive surfaces. Wooden fences, especially cedar, are often full of splinters and a bit rough. Chain-link fences often rust and break down, making them a good place to get a scrape. Smoother surfaces are ideal for kid-safe fencing. Vinyl, composite, aluminum, and steel picket and rail fencing are all good options.
• Climbing Difficulty: Most kids love to climb just as much as they love to explore through touch–at least that was the case when I was young. If having a child potentially climbing and falling off a fence is something to avoid, the best strategy might be to put in a fence that is simply too difficult to climb–a seemingly hard task when kids are involved! A fence with smooth, tall pickets, and without a lot of horizontal surfaces like rails has been my go-to option.
• Durability: This requirement goes back to the safety issue. It doesn’t matter how smooth and child-friendly the fencing material you initially choose is, if it won’t remain that way after a few years. Fencing that breaks down easily in the weather can be a hazard, as sharp and rusty edges might emerge, or joins might fail and cause the fence to fail when kids pull on or climb on it. When running a childcare business, it’s far better to start with durable materials that won’t require a whole lot of patching and maintenance.

Of course it’s important to keep kids from hurting themselves, but it’s equally–if not more–important to keep others from hurting the kids. A fence can do this by creating a safe, secure environment.

Second Requirement: Security

A high, sturdy fence is a natural pick for security reasons. With a daycare business, the peace of mind of both the parents and the business owners is absolutely crucial. Just as with safety, there are a few main considerations:

• Climbing Difficulty, Again: When I want to keep other people out and children in, I opt for fencing that is difficult to climb, plain and simple. Topping something with barbed wire is probably a bit excessive and definitely ugly, but a high picket fence, with smooth pickets, few horizontal rails, and perhaps topped with pointed finials, will likely be more than sufficient to deter would be climbers.
• Clear Sight Lines: Fencing that can be clearly seen through is often safer than fully solid privacy fencing, as it keeps people from hiding on the outside of the fence, and provides a line of sight for preschool employees or parents who might want to keep an eye on the kids from outside the enclosure. This is especially helpful around entrances and exits, particularly when those areas are somewhat discrete or closed off from public view.
• Height: This really goes without saying (but we’ll say it anyway). The nightmare of many parents is to have an adult reach over the fence and grab a child when no one is looking. Having a fence that is at least 5 feet tall keeps this from happening.

Third Requirement: Aesthetics

 Since taste is often subjective, this is a wide-open category and changes from context to context. Wood, vinyl, and metal fences can all be beautiful if made with care and quality craftsmanship. At my friends’ nursery, safety, security, and good aesthetics combined in the form of a well-coated black galvanized steel picket and rail fence for the outdoor play area. There’s a reason that powder-coated steel is often used as security fencing for schools and preschools. Paired with their retrofit Queen Anne-style home, a black steel fence fit perfectly. The tall, smooth pickets with only a couple horizontal rails proved difficult to climb and safe to the touch, while the height and the ornamental finials provided security and clear sight lines, and made it the perfect fence for a Victorian house.

In addition to the classic picket and rail fence, there are new picket and rail systems that are designed with the option of attaching wooden or composite infill boards. With yards that could use both privacy and openness–say, an open picket arrangement on one side of the fence and a solid privacy-style fence on another–this flexible fencing system works extremely well.

My friends’ business boomed and they asked me back a year later as their play area needed to expand into the backyard, which translated into adding 200 more feet of fencing. There are many ways of providing a safe and secure perimeter for a play area. When I need secure, attractive steel fencing, one of the first places I consider is Fortress Building Products, as their fences are unique in the quality and strength of their protective coatings, ease of installation, and craftsmanship. They use a special coating method involving a protective zinc coating on top of galvanization, topped with an e-coat and powder coat, which keeps their fencing looking beautiful for ages. I also frequent their building products website, if only for the extra bit of inspiration that often results from looking at their decking, railing, and ornamental hardware offerings.

Plastic Play Area Fencing for Children | Baby & Toddler

Tekplas’ Children’s Plastic Play Area Fencing is a versatile fencing solution to encapsulate outdoor areas in gardens for children.

The PVC material used in manufacture is of very high quality and contains UV stabilisers to defend against outdoor weathering. Its construction creates a maintenance free fencing solution, unlike other similar wooden products.

• High-Quality PVC Product
• Strong Rigid Construction
• Very Hygienic – Easy Clean Wipeable Surface
• Choice of Colours: Dark Grey / Brown / White / Golden Oak / Multi-coloured
• Quick Assembly and Disassembly
• Maintenance Free
• Suitable for Indoor and Outdoor Use
• Heavy Duty Plastic Product – Children will not be able to lift up or move around

Fencing Explained

With our posts you can connect a panel to each of the four faces, any faces of the post you don’t use, will be covered with a cover strip. It’s a modular system so you can keep adding to the fencing. You can make rectangles, squares, straight lines, U-Shapes, L-Shapes, etc

We can cut the panels so that you can go at different angles if required. If your making smaller squares or rectangles the fencing is free standing, if you require straight lines of more than 2 panels, then we can offer temporary stabilising feet which our posts slide over and this helps to stabilise the fence across longer runs or metposts which are knocked into the ground just below the surface level and our post recesses into the metpost and clamped into place. For permanent fixing (which is the best method) we can offer the posts cut longer to cement into the ground or we offer solid floor fixings. All of the above fixing products are on our fixings page. We can cut down our standard panels and make most sizes required, simply email a plan of what you require and our team will work everything out for you. Or if you can make our standard panels work, you can easily order everything you need direct from the website.

Each panel comes with one post. If you’re not making a square or rectangle then you will require a finishing post every time you finish the fencing. Again, these are on our fixings page. If your making in and out entrances with gates or just walk through gaps. So, stopping the fencing and starting again, you will require more finishing posts.

We can also offer gates to suit most gaps from 500mm – 1200mm wide if you’re going for our temporary fixings we would recommend not ordering a gate over 800mm wide due to the post not being fixed to the ground. If the posts are fixed permanently then anything up to 1200mm is fine. Our single play area gates are on the fencing page. This product has all the options you need to match this product, colours, height, etc

You will need to fix your post caps with PVC Solvent adhesive or super glue, to make a permanent fixing, or with silicone if you wish to move the posts at a later date or be able to replace them easily.

We also have another product Plastic Picket Fencing which allows the panel to sit of the ground by 50mm this helps when fitting the fencing on un-level ground. Allowing you to cut the spacer profile at slightly different heights each end to ensure the panels are level or you can even step the panels down slightly.

If you have any additional information, we have a notes section when checking out.

If you require different heights of fencing on the same fencing system we can just supply a slightly longer post allowing you to carry on with a different height suitable for different aged children.

The easy wipe surface can be wiped with ordinary household disinfectants or even washed in a garden environment with a hose or pressure washer should it become exposed to dirt or debris. We also recommend Everbuild Solvent  PVC Cleaner for stubborn marks

Fixing The Fencing

• Posts Cut Longer To Cement Into The Ground
• Solid Floor Fixings
• Metpost
• Temporary Outdoor Stainless Steel Stabilising Feet

Inspected by the RoSPA

ROSPA comments:

1. A well manufactured and presents a low risk to users.
2. The playpens are suitable for use as a fence/playpen in indoor and outdoors for children’s environments such as creches, nurseries, etc.

Play Area Fencing kits contain the following:

• 1 x Post and Cap
• 1 x Panel

Panel and Post Dimensions

Panels

Width: 115cm

Height: 60cm / 75cm / 90cm

Posts

Width: 75mm Square

Height: 60cm / 75cm / 90cm

Please Note:

We cannot be held responsible for the safety or installation of our products, as the buyer or installer you must make sure it is installed correctly and safe to use.

Do-it-yourself fence

Yuliya Skopich

fenced off neighbors

Author profile

I was afraid that the neighbors dog would jump over our old fence, so we decided to replace it.

Our summer cottage was separated from the neighboring one by a small wooden fence, which rotted over time. Until the neighbors had a dog, we did not think to change anything. But when it appeared, it became dangerous to leave a low and unreliable fence.

Almost at the same time, at my father-in-law’s dacha, my relatives decided to fence themselves off from one of the two neighboring plots. There was no fence, and the neighbor often sat on the bench opposite and looked, it was uncomfortable. Other neighbors fenced themselves off from their fathers-in-law.

I oversaw the installation of all the fences. In the article I will tell you how we negotiated with neighbors, chose the material, what are the building codes and rules for fences. I will describe what mistakes we made and why, if we are sued, we will be wrong.

Do a survey first

Before putting up a fence, check the boundaries of the site. This will help the cadastral engineer, who will conduct a land survey. Legislative norms mainly concern not the fences themselves, but indents from the boundaries of the site: it is assumed that the fence will stand along these boundaries. But it happens that intentionally or accidentally a fence is put up incorrectly: they seize the territory of a neighbor, the land of a city or a forest fund. And sometimes they install a fence, on the contrary, to their detriment – the site becomes smaller.

A fine is provided for self-occupation of land – from 1 to 1.5% of the cadastral value of the land plot, but not less than 5000 R. If the cadastral value is not determined, the fine will be from 5000 to 10 000 R. But the most unpleasant thing is that an incorrectly installed fence will be forced postpone. This is a very time-consuming and expensive procedure, especially if the fence is on a solid concrete foundation.

Fence Installation Guidelines

What kind of fence should be depends on the category of land. If the site is intended for IZHS, that is, individual housing construction, or private household plots, personal subsidiary plots, there may be local requirements for the fence. For example, sometimes the authorities oblige owners to use a standard design in order to maintain fences in the same style.

These are the requirements for fences, which are prescribed in the rules for land use and development of the urban settlement of Aprelevka, Naro-Fominsk Municipal District, Moscow Region. Source: docs.cntd.ru

In a garden non-profit partnership, SNT, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of the partnership. For example, in areas where there is little sun, it is sometimes forbidden to install blind fences. Imagine what will happen to strawberries or other light-loving crops if the shadow from the fence constantly falls on it.

Community 05/19/21

What kind of fence can be placed on a garden plot?

Local requirements are prescribed in the charter of the SNT or in the rules for land use and development of the municipality. But in addition to local regulations, there are federal requirements – they are mandatory in any territory throughout Russia.

Thus, in horticulture, a mesh fence 1.2–1.8 meters high is recommended. I emphasize that this is a recommendation, not a requirement. In addition, you can conclude an agreement between neighbors and agree on this document in the board of SNT – then we can accept a fence of any type, or you can do without a fence at all.

p. 6.2 SP 53.13330.2019

A shrub can be planted at least a meter from the border of an adjacent plot, a medium-sized tree – at a distance of at least two meters. If the tree is tall, the distance between it and the border or fence should be at least three meters.

/guide/ya-posadil-derevo/

How to properly plant and cut down a tree on your site

How not to bring conflict with neighbors

The owners of the site always install fences that border the street at their own expense. But the cost of a fence between neighbors is often divided in half. But the law does not say who should pay for the fence in adjacent territories and how exactly the costs should be divided.

Usually agreed. For example, one neighbor pays for materials, and the other pays for the work of builders. But if the neighbor does not want to chip in, you cannot oblige him to do so.

Community 07.04.21

How to check if a land plot falls within a security zone?

There are no rules about where the front – the most beautiful – side of the fence should look. In the Lipetsk region, where I live, there is an unspoken rule: the front side looks in the direction of the one who pays for the work or who owns the initiative to install the fence.

In practice, disputes often arise between neighbors, especially if someone starts putting up a fence without warning the other. Neighbors may not like the height or material of the fence, as well as the very fact of its appearance, if it was not there before. Therefore, it is better to draw up an agreement in advance and indicate the parameters of the fence in it. The agreement must be signed by both parties.

The agreement should look something like this. Source: law-divorce.ru If the house is divided into two owners, they often agree to install a fence between adjacent plots

If the neighbor is categorically against installing a fence, the fence can still be made, the main thing is to follow all the requirements and recommendations. If the owner of the site has violated the requirements, the neighbor can go to court, and if he takes his side, the fence will be obliged to move. The violator will have to pay the costs.

It happens that the fence was installed with a violation by the previous owner of the house. In this case, the court can still oblige the new owner of the site to dismantle the fence, since the new owner of the site is entirely responsible for its condition.

/list/kak-dostat-soseda/

5 ways to sue a neighbor

This decision was made by the Solntsevsky District Court of Moscow in 2017.

Case No. 2-2347/17PDF, 82 KB

Neighbors sued the owners of the adjacent property and demanded that the fence installed by the previous owner of this property back in 1979 be moved.

During the meeting, it turned out that the fence really captures part of someone else’s land and contradicts the land survey. The judge granted the claim.

As agreed with the neighbors

About the fence on our site. When we decided to install a fence in the dacha on the adjacent side, the neighbors did not object. But they warned that they would not share the expenses. We knew that we had no right to oblige them, so we did not argue.

We decided to make a blind fence and install it in place of the wooden one, although it would be more correct to call a cadastral engineer and clarify the boundaries of the site. Since we paid, we agreed with the neighbors that the front side would look in our direction.

About the fence at the father-in-law’s plot. There, fences were also made along the border of the plots.

On one side of the plot, my relatives installed a fence on their own, as the neighbors refused to share the expenses. When everything was ready, they made no claims. But we did not fix it in writing.

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The neighbors on the other side decided to do everything themselves and offered the father-in-law to pay half the cost of the fence. But my relatives refused: for materials and installation services, the neighbors brought a bill for 32,000 R. It seemed expensive, and the neighbors did not want to discuss anything.

Then my relatives suggested another option: the neighbors pay for the materials, and my husband and his father take care of the entire installation. But the neighbors already refused this, in the end they bought and did everything themselves.

All discussions were oral. None of us thought that it was better to conclude a written agreement.

This is how the fence looks from the side of the father-in-law’s yard. It was installed by neighbors

Fence materials

Owners are free to build fences from any materials, if local rules do not restrict this. It happens that local norms prescribe a certain color and material for fences from the side of the street. There are usually no such requirements for fences between neighbors. I’ll tell you which fences are made most often and how much it will cost.

From chain-link mesh: from 200 R per linear meter.

Such a fence visually enlarges the territory, protects from pets and strangers, but at the same time the territory is clearly visible – as if there is no fence.

Chain-link mesh is often chosen when the site does not border on neighbors, but on a field or other open space. Animals will not enter the territory with a net, protection from prying eyes is simply not needed, and the owners themselves get the opportunity to admire nature.

Prices for chain-link mesh depend on the cell size, metal coating and web length. Source: leroymerlin.ru This is a section of a chain-link fence at the site of my father-in-law. Sometimes the materials for the fence are combined. For example, they install a fence made of corrugated board along the territory of the yard, and a fence made of chain-link – along the site

From PVC: from 350 R per linear meter of corrugated board.

Such a fence is resistant to precipitation, dirt, mold, does not rot or fade in the sun. But low-quality plastic can crack in the cold. And the main drawback of the material is that it is not strong enough. Plastic can be damaged already at the installation stage if something is dropped on it, and such a fence can also be hit with hail – and all the plastic will be in holes.

Plastic fences can be solid or with gaps. Source: zabor-profi.ru

From mesh-gitter: from 1050 R per linear meter.

Gitter mesh fence is commonly referred to as 3D. This is due to stiffening ribs – rods that are bent in the shape of the letter V. In terms of structural strength, this fence can be compared with forged, but it costs less. True, the fence does not hide from prying eyes.

To protect the metal from corrosion, temperature extremes and UV rays, the mesh is coated with protective agents. And to protect it from chips, rust and scratches, it must be periodically painted.

In the Lipetsk region, where I live, a gitter mesh fence is often installed in front of schools.

This is a cheap version of a blind fence. Profiled fences are often criticized for their unaesthetic appearance, but gardeners still build such fences en masse because they are reliable and simple.

Corrugated sheets are protected from corrosion by galvanized and polymer coating. The material is wind resistant, quickly installed, reduces the noise level on the site.

There is a significant drawback: the profiled sheet is very susceptible to mechanical stress. For example, a fence can bend if there is a lot of snow in winter or if it is accidentally hit by a board during construction. Any distortion will be very noticeable.

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In the Lipetsk region, where I live, corrugated board is the most common material for installing a fence in an adjacent area

From wood: from 2200 R per linear meter.

Such a fence can even be made from old boards or scraps that remain after the construction or demolition of outbuildings. That is, a wooden fence can be a budget option. But modern wooden fences are not like those in old villages and are much more expensive.

Before installation, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic so that it does not rot and is not eaten by insects. If grass and forest fires occur in the area, the fence is also treated with a fire-fighting solution, otherwise it may catch fire – there will be a risk to the house.

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A wooden fence needs to be painted regularly to maintain its appearance.

This is an Austrian wicker – a fence made of painted boards that are mounted through a bar. Such a fence is easy to make with your own hands, but its function is mainly decorative. Wickerwork is only a help to country thieves: you can climb it like a ladder and jump over a fence in a matter of seconds. Source: dizainexpert.ru

From a metal profile: forged – from 2000 R per linear meter, from a profile pipe – from 1400 R per linear meter, from steel reinforcement – from 30,000 R per ton.

A non-deaf sectional metal fence is made of forged elements, a profile pipe or steel reinforcement in the form of rods. The most popular option is from a profile pipe. Such a fence is durable and lasts a long time, it does not need to be painted.

Occasionally, such a fence is coated with anti-corrosion agents and cleaned of rust.

A wrought iron fence is sometimes combined with polycarbonate or other deaf material – it turns out beautifully and functionally. But most often, such a fence is placed not between neighboring plots, but in front of the house. Source: na-dache.pro

From brick: from 10 R per piece, the cost of brickwork – from 6000 R per linear meter. The foundation is calculated separately.

A brick fence is expensive and takes a long time to build. Typically, such a fence is placed in front of the house from the side of the street, and something simpler is chosen between the sections. A brick fence is placed on a foundation – as a rule, a concrete tape is poured, so it is very difficult to move it later.

On the other hand, a brick fence easily withstands gusts of wind, hail, and does not depend on temperatures. A car or tractor can crash into such a fence, and it will stop them. If you lay out a brick fence correctly, it will stand for decades without any maintenance.

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How we bought a building plot together with friends

Made of concrete: from 2000 R per linear meter. The foundation is calculated separately.

Such a fence also needs a foundation, therefore it is expensive, and it is difficult to build it: special equipment is needed. As a rule, a foundation is made on the site, and then ready-made concrete sections are brought, which are installed on the foundation with the help of a crane or a manipulator.

A concrete fence is no less durable than a brick fence and can stand for half a century or more.

I could not find an example when such a fence would be placed between plots, but sometimes it is installed in front of the house

How we chose the material for the fence at the dacha

It was important for us that the fence protected the territory from animals and hid it from the view of neighbors. Since the neighbors were not ready to take part in the purchase of material, we decided to choose an inexpensive one. We didn’t like the tree because of its fragility, we didn’t think about PVC, the fence made of steel reinforcement was expensive, and we decided to stop at profiled sheets.

With a fence length of 10 meters and a height of 1.5 meters, we spent 5,000 rubles on a profiled sheet in 2016. We bought profile sheets measuring 2 × 1.15 meters and 0.45 mm thick. Now a similar fence would cost twice or even three times as much.

In addition to the corrugated sheet, support posts were required. We approached their selection responsibly: if the supports are unreliable, a strong wind will tilt the entire fence – and sooner or later it will simply fall.

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Profiled fence posts are made of wood, brick, metal or concrete. Wood quickly deteriorates, brick and concrete are expensive. Therefore, metal is most often used.

Metal poles are selected according to several parameters.

Ferrous or galvanized steel. Ferrous metal poles must first be primed and painted to protect the poles from corrosion. In the future, they need to be repainted as the old paint deteriorates. Galvanized steel poles are already coated with powder paint, which does not fade in the sun and does not require additional care.

Fit. Metal poles are available in round, square, rectangular or custom shapes. Round poles can even be simply screwed into the ground, they can also withstand a large load, but it is inconvenient to weld transverse jumpers to them, on which the profiled sheet will be held: the contact surface is too small. A profile pipe, square or rectangular, is more convenient in this sense.

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Made to measure. The endurance of the structure largely depends on the size of the posts: a fence on small posts will quickly squint and fall, because the post itself will bend.

Profile posts with a section of 60 × 60 or 60 × 40 mm are suitable for a two-meter fence. Now three-meter poles of this section cost 150-200 R per linear meter.

For a meter fence, you can take profile pipes with a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. Source: ggstroymarket-msk.ru

The length of the posts is also important – it depends on the height of the fence and the depth of soil freezing. These indicators must be added up, and the desired length of the pillars will be obtained. For example, in the Lipetsk region, the depth of soil freezing is 1.1 meters. That is, to put up a fence 1. 8 meters high, you need to buy three-meter supports.

For our dacha, we bought six-meter support poles with a section of 50 × 50 mm, which my husband cut in two, based on the fact that two meters are needed for the height of the fence and a meter for the ground. Two pillars came out of one. They cost about 3,000 R. Our plot is uneven, and the length of the pillars was enough for their upper edge to be all the same height.

Quantity. Poles cannot be placed too rarely, they will have too much load, and even in winter snowdrifts will simply push through the lintels along with the profiled sheet. Poles can be placed too often, but this is unreasonable and expensive.

How to choose a dacha and not waste time on unnecessary views

As a rule, for a two-meter fence, support posts are placed at a distance of 2.5-3 meters. Therefore, a ten-meter fence will require three or four supports.

This is not our fence, and here there is corrosion of ferrous metal posts due to improper preparation: it was necessary to first wipe off the remnants of the production emulsion, then degrease the surface, prime and only then paint. In this case, degreasing and primer are omitted

How we put up the fence

First, my husband removed the wooden fence and marked the boundaries of the new one. A large jasmine bush grew half a meter away, which, according to sanitary standards, should be at least a meter away. Besides, the bush just got in the way. Therefore, the husband dug it up and transplanted the shoot.

The hardest part was getting the supports straight. First, the husband marked out the territory, drove in two parallel rows of wooden pegs along the perimeter of the future fence, and pulled twine between the pegs.

The husband installed the poles at a distance of about 2.5 meters from each other, in the interval between the twines. To do this, he first dug holes a meter deep and placed pillars in them according to the level. The plot was with hillocks, and it was difficult to set up the pillars evenly. First, the husband put the extreme. Dad held each post, and the husband checked the even position with a level. The pillars were driven into the ground with a sledgehammer.

Once, when my husband was leveling the poles, he stumbled and stepped into a hole, after which he had to go to the hospital: his leg was very sore and we were afraid of a dislocation. Fortunately, it turned out that it was a bruise, and the next day the husband continued to work.

After installing the corner posts, we started the intermediate ones. When all the pillars were driven in, the holes were filled with concrete from above. After two days the solution seized.

Then it was necessary to make a frame, that is, to fix the horizontal guides. They are fixed at a distance of 20-30 cm from the upper and lower edges of the fence. The husband connected the rails to the posts by welding, and then primed all the metal parts in two layers to protect against corrosion. At that time, we did not know about the degreasing of the pillars, and over time, a slight corrosion nevertheless appeared. We bought half a liter of gray paint for 300 R and painted the posts and crossbars. Now it was possible to sheathe the frame with a profiled sheet.

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I didn’t prepare for this: 7 unexpected aspects of country life

My husband used roofing screws with a rubber gasket and a head in the color of the corrugated sheet as fasteners. We bought 500 self-tapping screws for 750 R. The profiled sheet was mounted with an overlap, and the corners were simply joined. If hurricane winds were blowing here, it would be possible to make air in the fence: for example, two profiled sheets, and then a small section of the picket fence – and so on throughout the fence. Ventilation is needed so that a strong wind does not knock down the fence. But we don’t have such winds, so we didn’t do this.

In total, it took us a week to install the fence and about 9000 R for materials. If we decided to order the installation, it would cost about 8000 R at 2016 prices.

What you need to know about installing a fence

1. Depending on the category of land, when building a fence, local regulations must be taken into account: the charter of the SNT or the land use rules of the local administration.
2. It is better to conclude a written agreement with neighbors, which will specify the height of the fence, where the front side will be facing, and other nuances. The agreement must be signed by both you and the neighbors.
3. If the neighbors are against the installation, the fence can still be installed, but then you must carefully follow all the requirements and recommendations – in case the neighbors sue.

News that concerns everyone is in our telegram channel. Subscribe to keep abreast of what is happening: @tinkoffjournal.

Top 15 Best Hedge Plants

💥🌹🌷 Global Sale! Updates every 2 days!

Posted:

4 years ago

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We present to your attention a selection of the best plants in our opinion for creating a living fence on your site.

• Lush, graceful blooms.
• Handles shearing well.
• Able to take various forms.
• By combining varieties with different flowering times, you can create a continuously flowering hedge.
• A wide range of varieties with different colors of inflorescences.
• Undemanding to soils

To maintain a neat appearance of the shrub, it is recommended to trim the faded inflorescences.

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