Highland head start: Highland Early Head Start – C05VO0497

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Phone: (870) 856-2411

Address: 2042 Highway 62 412, Highland, AR 72542

Website: https://www. nadcinc.org/locations/head-start-locations

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Highland Rim Head Start in Big Rock, TN

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2. Tennessee
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School District
Stewart County School District

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Highland Rim Head Start Enrollment, Ranking, and Statistics

Highland Rim Head Start is a public elementary school located in Big Rock, TN in the Stewart County School District. It enrolls 0 students in grades 1st through 12th.

Total Enrollment: N/A
Pupil/Teacher Ratio: N/A
Full Time Teachers: N/A

Enrollment Rank in Tennessee: Unranked
Student/Teacher Rank in Tennessee: Unranked
Full Time Teacher Rank in Tennessee: Unranked

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Graduation Year202620252024202320222021202020192018201720162015201420132012201120102009200820072006200520042003200220012000199919981997199619951994199319921991199019891988198719861985198419831982198119801979197819771976197519741973197219711970196919681967196619651964196319621961196019591958195719561955195419531952195119501949194819471946194519441943194219411940193919381937193619351934193319321931193019291928192719261925192419231922192119201919191819171916191519141913191219111910

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Highland Rim Head Start Students by Gender

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Highland Rim Head Start Students by Ethnicity

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Highland Rim Head Start Free and Reduced Lunch Assistance

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Students at a participating school may purchase a meal through the National School Lunch Program. Families with incomes between 130%
and 185% of the federal poverty level are eligible for reduced price meals.
Schools may not charge more than 40¢ for reduced-price lunches, nor more than 30¢ for reduced-price breakfasts.
Students from families with incomes at or below 130% of the federal poverty level are eligible for free meals.

For 2014, a family of two needs to make an annual income below $20,449 to be eligible for free meals or below $29,100 for reduced price meals.
A family of four needs to make an annual income below $31,005 for free meals or $44,122 for reduced price meals.

Highland Rim Head Start Trends Over Time

Total Students Over Time

Student Teacher Ratio Over Time

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Top Nearby Elementary Schools

School	Type	Grades	Students	Student Teacher Ratio	Distance
Highland Rim Head Start Big Rock, TN	Public	PK – PK	-1	-1:1
North Stewart Elementary Big Rock, TN	Public	PK – 06	422	16:1	1 miles
Stewart County Middle School Dover, TN	Public	06 – 08	472	18. 9:1	8 miles
Dover Elementary Dover, TN	Public	PK – 05	544	15.2:1	10 miles
Woodlawn Elementary Woodlawn, TN	Public	PK – 05	736	16:1	13 miles
South Christian Elementary School Herndon, KY	Public	PK – 06	703	16. 3:1	15 miles
Liberty Elementary Clarksville, TN	Public	PK – 05	783	13.5:1	16 miles
Houston County Middle School Erin, TN	Public	06 – 08	317	17.2:1	18 miles
Tennessee Ridge Elementary Tenn Ridge, TN	Public	PK – 05	269	16. 4:1	18 miles
Erin Elementary Erin, TN	Public	PK – 05	393	15.7:1	18 miles
Minglewood Elementary Clarksville, TN	Public	PK – 05	813	13:1	18 miles
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West Highland White Terrier Breed Standard

The Breed Standard is a guide that describes the ideal characteristics, temperament, appearance of the breed and ensures that the breed is fit for certain functions. Absolute compliance is required. Breeders and judges at all times must be very careful to avoid obvious circumstances or exaggerations which may be detrimental in any way to the health, welfare or conformity of the breed. From time to time, certain circumstances or exaggerations can have a potentially adverse effect on dogs in some breeds, and judges and breeders are asked to report any such ongoing issues for further clarification. If a feature or quality is a priority, then it should only be represented in the right way.

Strong build; deep chest and hind ribs, a straight line of the back and powerful limbs on muscular paws, clearly expresses an excellent combination of strength and energy.

CHARACTERISTICS

Small, active, funny, brave, has a great sense of self-esteem and vanity with a playful appearance.

TEMPERAMENT

Alert, cheerful, courageous, self-confident, but friendly.

HEAD AND SKULL

Slightly domed; when wrapping fingers across the forehead, it is an even arc. Slightly tapering from ears to eyes. The distance from the occiput to the eyes is slightly longer than the length of the muzzle. The head is covered with dense hair, set at a right or lesser angle with respect to the axis of the neck. The dog must not carry its head in an outstretched position. The muzzle gradually tapers from the eyes to the nose. The transition from the forehead to the nose is well defined; formed by a heavy bony protrusion, slightly hanging directly above the eyes, and a small depression between the eyes. The jaws are strong and even. The nose is black and rather large, forming a smooth contour with the rest of the muzzle. The nose does not protrude forward.

Comment. Skull broad, level, slightly domed (not too domed or apple-shaped), which tapers slightly from the ears to the eyes and gradually from the eyes to the muzzle.

“The distance from the occiput to the eyes is slightly more than the length of the muzzle.” To determine these relative distances, you must know the start and end points clearly. The position of the eyes is obvious; The occipital protuberance is the protrusion at the back of the skull where the cervical vertebrae join the skull. A common misinterpretation is that the muzzle should be short or the shorter the better, this is not the case. If you go this route in your breeding, you will encourage the development of bad mouths, the more you shorten the muzzle, the less room there is to accommodate all the teeth, resulting in narrow mouths and misaligned teeth. The breed must be neither long-faced (dolichocephalic) nor short-faced (brachycephalic), but must fall between the two (i. e. be mesocephalic).

“Clear stop”. These two words create more problems for interpretation than any other. From time to time, you can read “deep stop” or even worse “very deep stop” in the descriptions. The latter implies, the deeper, the better, which again is not entirely true. The English Kennel Club defines the concept of “stop” as follows: “transition from forehead to muzzle; a depression between the eyes where the nasal bone and the skull meet. On a good head, the stop should be clearly visible. This does not mean at all that the stop should rise like a sheer cliff or that the skull should protrude. The expression “stop” is used to determine the place where the sagittal crest ends and the cranial line descends to the nasal bones.

If our breed had a deep stop or the breeders were aiming for the “deepest stop”, then the correct expression of the breed, which is a good head, would be lost and the breed would look like a Pointer or Boxer with a concave muzzle, completely changing the expression, which is not acceptable for serious lovers of the West Highlands.

In fact, the muzzle should be well formed rather than falling off. Often the fullness of the muzzle comes with age and maturity, but even young puppies should not have what could be described as “weak” in this place, because. it gives an incomplete impression.

The nose must be black, any other color is considered a fault, in contrast to nails and paw pads, which are described in the standard as “preferably black”. The nose should be “quite large”, but not overly, and should be in proportion. It is also said that “the nose should not protrude”, but it does protrude beyond the muzzle, but only a little.

EYES

Wide-set, medium size, as dark as possible. Slightly recessed, shrewd and intelligent, with a piercing gaze from under heavy eyebrows. Light colored eyes are highly undesirable.

Comment. The fact that the eyes should be set wide provides for a skull of good width and a full muzzle so that the eyes can be placed in this way. And if the massive, bony superciliary arches are expressed to the right degree, then the eyes will have exactly that “slightly deepened” expression, which is complemented by heavy eyebrows. Eye color is not specified, but is described as “as dark as possible” in the original standard (1908) dark hazelnut color is recommended, this is the key: dark hazelnut, the darker the better. In the current standard, there is no indication that the shape of the eyes should be almond shaped. The dark rim of the eyes is not always visible these days, but when it is present, it complements the eye well and adds a little more definition to the overall expression, which can be essential in the show ring. Any serious deviation from the above, such as round, protruding or light eyes (light hazelnut, amber or yellow), should be considered a fault depending on the degree of manifestation.

Eyes are one of the main components necessary for the desired expression. The standard says “attentive and intelligent, with a penetrating eye. ” Correctly describing the desired expression, add alertness, excitement, happiness, fearlessness to it, and perhaps you will have a better idea. The eyes can say a lot, and you will agree that all these definitions describe a mixture of emotions that come together to give the necessary “playful” expression, so desirable, often noticeable, and always admired in VHUT.

EARS

Small, erect, carried confidently, pointed, set neither too wide nor too close. The coat is short and smooth (velvety) and should not be sheared. There is no fringe along the top edge. Ears with rounded ends, broad, large or thick, or ears covered with a lot of hair, are highly undesirable.

Comment. Just as important to the overall impression are the ears, which should be relatively small but in proportion to the head and the dog as a whole. Ears that look right and balanced on one dog will not look good on another, and vice versa, although both options will be completely up to standard. Too large, thick, wide and ill-set ears will ruin even a good head and expression; they are easily visible and should be considered a fault. Black or dark pigmentation on the inside of the ear is always welcome and of course adds a touch of quality. The hair at the tip of the ears is plucked in such a way as to give the shape of a pointed, inverted V. They should be properly set on the top of the outer edge of the skull, held steady and alert; beautiful ears complete a good head and expression.

One of the serious faults is considered to be semi-erect weak ears, which either fall or rise while the dog is moving. This also applies to dropped ears. Ears should be upright at all times.

MOUTH

Wide enough between the canines to provide the required playful expression. Teeth large in relation to the size of the dog, with a regular scissor bite, i.e. the upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set at right angles to the jaws.

Comment. Keeping in mind the original purpose of the breed, there is no doubt that throughout the development, the breed had a wide mouth with sufficiently large teeth for the general size of the dog. If the teeth were smaller, then the ability to kill prey would be much worse. In a narrower mouth and muzzle, the teeth would be crowded, resulting in an incorrect position. The dental system should consist of 42 teeth. In the UK, the number of molars and premolars is given less importance than the number of teeth located in front (incisors and canines), which must have a correct “scissor bite”: the upper teeth should closely overlap the lower incisors, the canines should meet. Undershot or overshot are faults.

In Europe and Scandinavia, the absence of four molars or premolars will be tolerated; if more and the dog (however good a copy it would not be, despite this), most likely will not be eligible to participate in exhibitions or will be fined to such an extent that the chances of winning anything will be scanty. In Germany, in particular, any missing teeth are taken very seriously.

It is clear that teeth are an important aspect of a dog, but this is one of many. Now they write a lot that modern wolves in the wild now do not have a complete set of teeth. Changes in the environment and habitual feeding seem to have forced evolution to change to eliminate the need for these teeth. Since the wolf is the forerunner of the domestic dog, is it fair to insist that all show dogs that have been domesticated for a century or more must have 42 teeth?

It’s so obviously wrong when a dog that is much worse in many other ways outperforms a better dog just by having one more molar or premolar. Of course, the judging must be based on the merits and demerits of each dog as compared to the standard, with each fault or advantage considered according to the degree of manifestation.

Pigmented lips and gums, also no longer covered by the standard but still welcome; they add definition and an extra touch of quality to the mouth as a whole.

One of the major omissions in the current standard is that it does not specify the exact number of incisors. In the absence of guidance, it can be proven that 5 incisors between canines is acceptable – never! Of course, those with more experience know that there should be six incisors between the canines in both the upper and lower jaws, but the lack of this information may lead to a different interpretation in the future.

NECK

Sufficiently long to allow proper head set, muscular and gradually thickens towards the base, providing a smooth transition into sloping shoulders.

Comment. The neck should be long enough to allow a proper, proud carriage of the head, but not excessively. Too long a neck is almost, but to a lesser extent, as bad as a short neck, which gives the impression of being massive, and is most likely the result of a straight set shoulder. Strong and muscular, the neck should gradually thicken towards the base, and merge smoothly into the shoulders.

FOREQUARTERS

Shoulders tilted back. The shoulder blades are wide and close to the chest wall. The shoulder joint is shifted forward, the elbows are tightly pressed, allowing the front legs to move freely parallel to the axis of the body. The forelimbs are short and muscular, straight, covered with thick, short, rough hair.

Comment. If any part of the West Highlands required more importance than the rest, it would be the forelegs, because in general, the correctness of their structure affects many other parts. Without good forelimbs, the dog’s structure is bound to be wrong elsewhere, movements will be limited and seriously affect the overall appearance.

Shoulder blades should be sloping back and, where they meet the spine, should be well connected but not touching at all. Fitting close to the chest with the elbows close-fitting under the dog so that, when viewed with the hands from the ears down to the back, they form a smooth transition with little, if any, sense of disengagement.

The junction of the scapula and humerus must protrude forward, at almost the right angle, so that the legs are under the body in a straight line with the shoulder blades, providing a regular, long, free step. From time to time you can see dogs in the ring standing in a stance with their front legs “carried out” forward, like a child’s rocking horse. This is either a handler’s mistake or an attempt to cover up a dog’s flaw, and of course it’s wrong.

The correct depth and width of the chest between the front legs varies with age. Puppies and youngsters may not be fully developed in this area, especially the depth that comes with maturity. Usually, as the dog matures, the chest sinks to the required depth, the lowest point of which is at elbow level. It is more difficult to establish the width of the chest, which depends on the overall proportions and balance of the dog. However, this is a very important part. Too wide a chest would have prevented the dog from doing its job, chasing prey through the crevices and gorges of the large boulders of its native landscape. A chest that was too narrow in front would not have had enough room for the heart and lungs needed for stamina. As a rule, four fingers of the hand should fit between the front legs: if a little narrower or a little looser, that’s right; if more than spacious, then too wide, if more crowded, then too small chest.

The front legs should be as straight as possible. The standard says “straight”, which in itself is a little misleading, because the shape of the bones and joints of the legs predetermines this straightness, “as straight as possible” is a more understandable definition. This is not to say that the curvature of the front legs is allowed, absolutely not, and must necessarily be penalized depending on the degree of manifestation. The bone of the forelegs must be strong, round, of good substance, but not too much, otherwise the dog will look rough and heavy. Also, the bone should not be too light, because. the dog will look weak and bony. The front legs should be vertical and perpendicular to the body from whatever angle you look. Serious shortcomings are: too wide or narrow front, splay or clubfoot, barrel-shaped set with turned out elbows. The front legs should be free and move parallel to the axis of the body so that when moving in a straight line when viewed from behind, it would not be possible to see the shoulders behind the hind legs.

Defects in the forelimbs cause problems in other parts of the dog’s body; if the shoulders are straight, then the neck is likely to be shorter, the back is longer, the head position may be affected, the length of the reach will be shorter, the movements are unnatural. Excessive width or narrowness of the front will be easily noticed. A fault called “inverted elbows” can lead to weakness in the front and movements. Any severely deformed forelimbs are easily visible both in the stance and in motion.

BODY

Compact. The back is straight, the loin is wide and powerful. The chest is deep, the ribs are well sprung in the upper half, presenting a flattened appearance on the sides. The hind ribs are considerably deepened, the distance from the last rib to the hindquarters being as short as is compatible with the free movement of the body.

Comment. If you stand in front of the dog and look at it from above, then the body from the shoulders to the tail should be wedge-shaped. This shape is derived from a combination of closely joined shoulder blades, ribs that curve well in the upper half only and then flatten down the sides of the dog, and a broad loin. The barrel chest is completely wrong for the West Highlands. The depth of the chest, at least, should be at the level of the elbow, the back ribs, again, should have enough depth, and the distance from the last rib to the thigh should be as short as possible and not affect the free movements of the body, respectively, and the loin will be short.

When evaluating the length of the back, it must be remembered that even with good shoulder position and the correct tail set, ribs that are too short will make the loin appear longer, so that the dog’s back will also appear long. One of the first and easily

memorable things we learn is that the breed should have a short back, surprisingly the standard never says “short back”, the standard says “compact”. They are not exactly the same and can be misinterpreted. A short back does not mean the shorter the better for proportion, balance, type and size, you need to justify when making such an assessment. What may look short on one dog may not be on another, it’s all relative. The back should be level without a ledge behind the shoulders and not droop in front of the tail. The croup should not be higher than the shoulders.

HINDQUARTERS

Strong, muscular, broad at the top. The legs are short, muscular and sinewy. The thighs are very muscular and not too widely spaced.
The hocks are curved and placed under the body in such a way as to be sufficiently close together when moving or standing. Straight or weak hocks are highly undesirable.

Comment. The back should be wide enough at the top to achieve the desired “wedge shape”; without the necessary width, the body will look narrower and longer. The expression “thighs very muscular” means well defined and firm to the touch. The same applies to the lower leg, which, although smaller, should be just as distinct, a point that is often overlooked. The knee is well rounded; The hock is well-defined with well-defined angulations and is under the body, providing a strong propulsion when moving.

Cow stance (closer hocks) is considered a fault, it is also a fault if the dog is too high on the hocks: this makes the stifle too short and straight, and therefore not angulated enough. It is also unacceptable if the dog in motion clubfoot and braids.

FEET

The front feet are larger than the hind feet, round, proportional in size, strong, with thick pads, covered with short coarse hair. The hind feet are smaller, with thick pads. The undersurface of the pads and nails are preferably black.

Comment. Bad paws spoil the dog not so much visually as they directly affect the set and movement. The forelegs are larger than the hind legs, but all four should be round and arched like a cat’s paw. Weak pasterns are quite common these days, resulting in loose feet and a loss of springy stride. Paw pads should be thick; keeping in mind the original purpose of the breed and the fact that it is an active dog, good pads are essential. Black pigmentation of the pads and nails is to be preferred and, like pigmentation elsewhere, should be striven for, but this is not a significant fault here. From time to time, even a well-pigmented dog loses color, especially in winter.

TAIL

Length is 5 to 6 inches (13-15 cm), covered with harsh hair, without long strands, as straight as possible, carried nonchalantly but not flippantly or curled over the back. A long tail is undesirable, but tail docking is unacceptable.

Comment. “5 – 6″ long (13 – 15 cm)”. When tense, with the tail held vertically, the tip of the tail should be level with the top of the head, or slightly shorter. With proper trimming, the tail should be free of excess hair and should be in the “beautiful carrot shape” i.e. quite thick at the base and gradually tapering towards the tip. Straight as far as possible, carried confidently and vertically or leaning slightly towards the head, but not curled over the back. Postav should be on the same level with the spine. A tail set low, thin, too long or short, curled or bent, carried between the legs or lying on the back is considered a fault and should be penalized according to the degree of manifestation.

MOVEMENT

Free, straight and light on all sides. The forelimbs move freely forward from the shoulder. Hind limbs move freely, powerfully, close to each other. The stifles and hocks are well bent, the hocks pulling under the body provide a strong push forward. Stiff, stilted hindquarters and close hocks are highly undesirable.

Comment. This is one of the main areas of controversy, more open to personal opinion than anything else. Sometimes we see a certain dog whose movements the judge describes as “excellent,” “amazing,” “superb,” and so on, and wonder if the judge was looking at the same dog as we are—such a different opinion.

Standard says “loose, straight and light on all sides”, a well built dog that shows itself in a favorable light is obvious to all. The forelegs must be free to provide a long and strong reach. If the shoulder is not correct, for example, too straight, then the dog will be “tied at the shoulder”, which will limit the length and possibly the outline of the reach of the forelegs. The hindquarters are the “motor” and must show such power that when the step starts from a position of the legs well under the body, with the hocks well bent, they drive the dog forward with noticeable force. Many find the description of “close” movements confusing. In movement, the hindquarters of the West Highlands are more closely spaced than the wide stance of some other terrier breeds, such as the Fox Terrier or the Lakeland Terrier, whose clumsy and limited movements would be completely wrong for our breed. Proximity of the limbs must not be confused with close hocks or, even worse, with crossing of the hindquarters. Much depends on the pace of the dog’s movement: if the pace is too slow, it is difficult to determine the length, power or pushing power; too fast and the limbs tend to go more under the body towards the center of gravity. The back should always remain straight while moving. One of the most common faults, and the one that is most punished, is the raking of the linked movements of the fore or hind limbs.

Two points that are mistaken for correct: this is a “horse” step, i.e. a movement with high forelimbs, which may seem attractive, but in fact such a step does not give the necessary forward reach, and the most common, high rise at the end of the hind limbs, which again may look attractive, but is overly exaggerated and entails loss dog energy.

In essence, when a good dog moves well, it shows that feeling of fluency, strength, energy and activity with an apparently natural combination of its characteristics.

WOOL

Coat with undercoat. The outer hair is coarse, about 5 cm (2 in) long, without any curls. The undercoat is fur-like, short, soft and dense. Wool without undercoat is highly undesirable. The skin must be healthy.

Comment. Major excellence rarely found in perfection and, at least in show dogs, requires a lot of time and effort. The outer hair is coarse, straight and approximately 2 inches (5 cm) long. It will not be superfluous to use a ruler in order to know exactly how long 5 cm is, and keep in mind that you need to measure the wool from root to tip. There is a lot of controversy regarding the “modern” method of trimming and the claim that the coat is too short. Sometimes it is, but there is little evidence to suggest that this is a growing trend. The undercoat (which resembles fur) is also important for protection from inclement weather and for the show ring, as it combines with the outer coat to provide the desired close-lying coat. The hair on the head, legs and skirt is longer; and on the head is softer, but should not resemble fluff or cotton wool.

COLOR

White.

Comment. The color of the breed itself is white, but at times you may encounter a slight tinge of wheaten or light brown. Quite often, it is the result of overzealous trimming, sometimes the result of improper feeding, or it may be hereditary. In the first two cases, this coat color can show up on a dog that has had a fine white coat up to that point, and can be corrected relatively easily with gentle trimming or a change in diet, depending on the cause. In the latter case, coat color, due to its innate nature, is likely to be present throughout the life of the dog. However, depending on the importance of color, improvement can be achieved with careful trimming and presentation. In any case, a dog that has a coat with an undercoat of regular texture, but with a slight yellowish tinge, is always preferable to a dog, all other things being equal, with a soft, fluffy coat that is not acceptable for the breed. Wool without undercoat is considered a fault.

SIZE

Height at withers approx. 28 cm.

Comment. The standard says “approximately 11 inches (28 cm) at the withers”, which allows some freedom. And again we return to proportions, balance, type, and the general manifestation of quality. In fact, there is no problem with size in the breed: you can see dogs that are too big and loaded as well as small and weak, but, generally speaking, the size of show dogs today corresponds to the parameters described in the standard. Ask yourself a hypothetical question: you have a choice of two dogs, the first of excellent quality, but a little big or small, the second of a good size, but mediocre quality. Which one would you choose? Experience has shown that it is difficult to succeed with a male less than 11 inches (28 cm) tall because he is not in demand; bitches, however, are indeed in demand at the smallest stature, provided that they meet the standard not only in structure, but also in good bone and substance. It seems because undersized males are unacceptable, and the fact that we refer to an outstanding male as a “stallion” and the fact that smaller males do not fit into this category. Likewise, bitches who are at the limit of growth also find it difficult to achieve success, the reason is the lack of femininity and the male type. This is of course a generalization and there are many exceptions to the rule.

FAULTS

Any deviation from the above must be considered as a defect or fault. The severity with which a fault must be judged must be in exact relation to the degree of its manifestation and the effect on the health and condition of the dog. Any dog ​​clearly showing physical or behavioral abnormalities must be disqualified.

NOTE

Males must have two normal testes fully descended into the scrotum.